On the 4.9 liter you have to hold the clutch pedal in (If Manual transmission) until after the codes are sent.
Your trouble codes will also flash out on your “check engine” or “service engine soon” light. Turn the ignition switch to run (do not start) and watch the test light.
Connect the negative side of the test light to the negative battery terminal (see illustration below). Stick the positive side of a standard 12-volt test light into the Self-test output pin. Connect a jumper wire (16 gauge braided wire with a male spade connector on each end works great) between the STI Connector and pin #2 (signal return pin) on the DLC connector. Shut off the motor and wait for ten seconds. Radio, Air, Heater, etc.) Start the Truck and warm it up to normal operating temperature. Set the parking brake, put your transmission in Park or Neutral if Manual, Block the wheels, and turn off all electrical loads (i.e. Step 2: Retrieving Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and Continuous Memory(CM) Codes The STI connector is located adjacent to the DLC connector and looks roughly like below. You will be looking for a connector that looks roughly like the one below. 1992-1995 is located on the driver’s side front fender apron near the hood hinge. 1987-1991 (maybe older) is located on the driver’s side of the engine bay behind the air cleaner. Locate the Diagnostic link Connector (DLC) and the Self-Test Input connector (STI) on your truck. To me this is cheaper and just as effective as buying a code scanner and definitely a TON cheaper than taking it to the Ford House. This is what I have always done as was taught to me a few years back. As of late I am seeing a lot of people asking about pulling the Fault Codes from the EEC-IV systems on their Ford Trucks.
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